Jaipur, Apr 15: In a landscape long defined by embroidery, a quieter and more tactile form of expression is beginning to take shape. One that does not rely on surface embellishment, but on the way a fabric is shaped, folded, and brought to life.
This season, the Jaipur-based label Pleyne shifts its focus to pleats and tucks as a primary design language, introducing a perspective that feels both considered and contemporary.
At its essence, pleating and tucking offer a different kind of richness. They work with the fabric rather than sitting on top of it. The depth they create is structural, not decorative. As light moves across these surfaces, the garment reveals dimension in a way that feels subtle yet distinctive.
Classic techniques such as knife pleats, box pleats, and inverted pleats bring rhythm and movement to silhouettes, while tucks including pin tucks, shell tucks, and shirring introduce finer, more intricate textures. Together, they form a layered language of construction that is both precise and expressive.
In contrast to embroidery, which often adds visual weight, pleats and tucks allow the garment to remain light and breathable. This becomes especially relevant in the context of Indian summers, where comfort is as important as presence.
“Embroidery has always been a strong part of Indian menswear, but we felt there was space to explore something quieter. Pleats and tucks allow us to create detail without adding heaviness. They let the fabric speak in a more natural way,” says Chirag Sogani.
The silhouettes support this direction. Clean lines, softened structures, and fluid forms ensure that the focus remains on the material and its movement. There is an ease to the garments, but also a sense of precision in how they are constructed.
What emerges is a new design vocabulary. One where craft is expressed through technique rather than ornamentation. One that invites a closer look, rather than demanding immediate attention.
In this shift, Indian menswear finds a quieter confidence.
